Journey Day 7 - Wilson to Gardiner (Yellowstone 3)

[catchup: photo's added 16/8]

Back into Yellowstone today to do the SE Geysers area including Old Faithful.

We rose early to cloud and a little rain but with hot air balloons in the sky from our window it was clearly expected to be ok. We have slept well here in our first ever airbnb, a comfortable bed and we are finally adjusting to the time change and the altitude. We have both had blocked noses and signs of blood due to the sudden move to altitude but we are no longer short of breath. Yesterday's hike showed that.

Our accommodation proved to be in a perfect position straight onto Moose Road heading into the South Gate of Grand Teton NP. (Trust the French, apparently Grand Teton = Large Breasts).
We left at 8:20 which seemed as if it gave us a comfortable day but in practice it proved a very long day. Incredibly people stay at Jackson for Yellowstone but as the roads are not fast, including 25 MPH stretches through Gnd. Teton progress would be very slow.

We headed north along the same route as yesterday but Moose Road produced no Moose, nor any other mammal sighting other than human. We did have the amazing sight of a bald eagle buzzing an osprey which is not something you see every day. Stopped at Dormans for gas (petrol) and a sandwich. On joining the main road we decided to invest time in revisiting the beaver area in the hope of early day activity but after 20min, now 10am we realised they were not showing. Off again, spotted a group of Pronghorns and continued to Yellowstone arriving at the queue to enter at 11:25, 3hrs since leaving Wilson.

Yellowstone Geyser Area

As we arrived close to Old Faithful it became apparent that this is where the World comes to with flyover approach roads and massive parking areas; quite unlike the eastern side of the Park. Even with the huge parking area we were still prowling around after 30 mins and my patience was running thin. A problem is that you don't know when things are going to happen so I drove around while Lynne went into the visitor centre. At this point our fortunes improved; I found a space and Lynne found that Old Faithful was due around 1:33pm +/- 15min which gave us a comfortable 25 mins to get into position. We'd been tipped off to get the wind behind or on your shoulder; if the wind is in you face the geyser will simply disappear in the steam.

Old Faithful erupting

Well, patience was required as, after several false starts, Old Faithful finally erupted 20 mins late at and impressive it was. I continues for a good few minutes so it's not a case of blink and you've missed it. Average time between eruptions is 90 min so if you just miss one it really affects your day. As time was moving on we did not tour the other features in the Old Faithful basin but returned to the car to our sandwich, crisps and cake and left the area 2:35pm.

In theory, you can get estimates of other geyser activity but a typical one, Great Fountain Geyser was signed, "May erupt between 5 and 9 pm today". You cannot plan to see them erupt, you can only hope for some luck as you move around.

Next stop was Black Sand Basin which was one of my favourite stops. A half mile boardwalk around hot springs and gurgling holes including Emerald Pool and Sunset Lake. (left 3:22pm)

Biscuit basin was interesting including the gorgeous Sapphire Pool which you can see is deep and undercuts the thin crust around. (left 3:53pm)

Sapphire Pool

Midway Geyser Basin: Couldn't get into car park and parked 10-15 min's walk away. Approached across the river to face 2 streams of steaming water pouring off the pool of Excelsior Geyser the largest in the Park. Excelsior was a small geyser which suddenly blew up one year opening a large crater. The steam coming off the large pool obscured the centre.

Grand Prismatic is the big multi-coloured circular feature seen on adverts for Yellowstone. Those pictures must be taken from aircraft as at ground level you can only see the edges closest to you due to steam, however, that doesn't detract from how amazing it is. (left 4:46pm)

Grand Prismatic

Firehole drive took us past Great Fountain Geyser (see comment above). (left 5:18pm)

Lower Geyser Basin: A walk around the full variety of types offspring and geyser around a strange steaming land. As well as stunning azur hot pools, oddities included White Dome Geyser and Fountain Paint Pots, a strange array of peaks with bubbling mud in the middle.

White Dome Geyser

Leaving Artist's Paintpot at 5:40pm it was time to just drive and get to tonight's lodging at Gardiner, north of the Park about 40 miles away. 40 miles on Park roads does not equal 40 mins as there is traffic to deal with near the West Gate then 35mph max with much 25mph.

We did not stop once north Maddison as that area is tomorrow's agenda. After the heavy traffic of the SW in the day the NW seems peaceful, wide open meadows and winding through forest eventually crossing a bridge to a high pass of white rock then descending for miles down to the lower altitude of Gardiner having crossed into Montana state.

We arrived at Roadway Inn at 7:30, 2 hours behind our intended so the planned laundry isn't happening. Both tired, we settled for the pizza restaurant next door.

Today's route

Statistics: Miles today: 171 miles; Miles so far: 1313; Fuel added so far: 45.7 gals; States: Wyoming, Montana; Time Zone: Mountain Daylight Saving (UK-7)